Stuart GouldenTucked away on Goodramgate, And All That Could Have Been (AATCHB) has been a clandestine nighttime hideout for only the most observant and clued up in the city for all of 10 days now. Endearingly sophisticated but not pretentious or stuffy with it, it’s already managed to build a glowing reputation for treading its own path in York’s bar scene. The time has now come to spread the good word further and let others in on the secret.
Low-lit in monochrome with the occasional red flash, the bar is transformed from deli by day to reveal a chic cocktail bar by night. We joined a few friends at AATCHB last night and caught a few moments with the proprietor, 26-year-old James Wreglesworth.
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Could you tell us about your background and what led you to opening a cocktail bar in York?
I’ve grown up in hospitality. My parents had a guesthouse when I was young and I’ve stayed in the industry ever since. I’ve managed bars in Sydney, London and York fell in love with cocktails a number of years ago. We’ve enjoyed a rather beautiful relationship together, ever since. It’s every bartender’s dream to have their own premises and when one is fortune enough to be afforded the opportunity to pursue something like this, you grab hold of it and you don’t let go.
York seemed like the perfect place to attempt something like And All That Could Have Been. People are very knowledgeable about food and drink here.
What are you trying to achieve?
Honestly? I want And All That Could Have Been to be spoken of in the same breath as some of the very best bars in the world. Why aim for anything less? Life’s far too short for shit drinks.
We’re definitely doing some things that haven’t been done in York before. We offer full waitress service – there’s no bar to wait at, per se. Hopefully we take the stress out of going out for a drink. Our only aim is to make you feel amazing. Don’t you worry about a thing, we’ll look after you. Seriously, we work very hard at this.
We have far more similarities with a restaurant than a bar but I think people will really love that dynamic. As soon as you arrive, you have a glass of iced-water in front of you at all times. We never let it fall below half-full. It’s a more civilised, comfortable and easy-going way of drinking. It’s also makes for a more playful atmosphere and is incredibly good fun! Surely that’s the point, right?
I wanted to build a team of staff that genuinely enhanced your evening. My guys and girls are so amazing and they love what they’re doing. I brought together ambitious people for a reason; we push each other every day to be more creative and consistent. It’s a very positive working environment.
There’s none of that bartender bravado or machismo that you see so much of now. One of the worst experiences in a gentleman’s life is to wait an eon while some hot-shot seemingly tries to mess up your drink whilst simultaneously looking down your girlfriend’s top. I hate it and I won’t have it.
Our only role in your evening is to make sure you have a great time.
Some people have labeled our drinks “Molecular Mixology” but it’s not a term that I feel really applies to our menu. Yes, we do use modernist processes in the production of the cocktails – such as foams, gels, jellies and “airs” – but the term “Molecular” is a bit of a misnomer. I prefer to think of it as a menu that has simply been thought about very carefully. A menu that amuses as much as it pleases.
Who or what is your inspiration?
Chris (our head bartender) and I are influenced as much by chefs, as by people in the bar-world. There is a certain purity in great food that isn’t often translated delicately enough into drinks. We’re trying to bridge that gap.
Chefs like Grant Achatz at Alinea in Chicago; The Roca Brothers at El Cellar de can Roca in Girona; Heston Blumenthal, obviously. Taking inspiration from what those guys are doing has contributed massively to the make-up of the place.
Not everything comes from the world of food and drink. It can be something as simple as a song or a memory. They’re often the better drinks, actually. We take a lot of themes from apothecary, alchemy and the medicinal use of alcohol throughout the ages.
What stage are you at, and what does the future hold?
The bar’s been open for just over a week and I’m delighted by the reception we’ve received so far. People seem to genuinely love the place, which of course is a source of great relief! Whatever the future holds, it’s difficult to tell. We’re just going to concentrate on producing great drinks and providing our guests with immaculate service.
How would you describe yourself as a mixologist? What are your signature cocktails?
It’s just our personal preference, but we prefer the term “bartender”. The word “Mixologist” smacks a little of arrogance and I would be terrifically upset if a member of our team conducted themselves in a manner that was anything other than humble.
The “fancy drinks” section on the menu is a collection of 11 classic cocktails that have been deconstructed and rebuilt, using modern techniques and alternative ingredients. So the flavour profile is different but the mechanics of making the drink are exactly the same as they were 150 years ago. It’s a concept I’m very comfortable with. The great bartenders of the day, such as Jerry Thomas, created incredible concoctions that are still very, very relevant today.
For our signature cocktails, I’ll choose one of mine and one of Chris’. My drink called ‘This is What Happens When You Treat People Badly’ (some of our names for drinks are a little long-winded!) and it’s a essentially a ‘Sour’ – a Sour being a shaken drink comprising of spirit, lemon, egg-white and sugar. For the base spirit we use Campari – which is probably the most unfairly derided spirit in the world – and we also add 10ml of a cocktail bitters called ‘Peychaud’s’. Normally, you’d add bitters in drops but we love the finish on the Peychaud’s so much, that we felt the drink called for a more healthy dose.
Chris’ drink is the ‘Lapsang Treacle’. We make our own Lapsang Souchong tincture by infusing the tea into pure grain ethanol at 96% ABV. The tea is left suspended in the alcohol for three weeks. We dilute the mixture down to around 43% and use 2.5ml of it, shaken with a good dose of an excellent Antiguan Rum and peach sugar. This is the topped off with a pressed apple foam made using various setting agents.
What’s the thinking behind the name? Is there any link with the Nine Inch Nails track?
There is a small link with the track. I am a fan. The actual reasoning is something all together more personal… and that’s all you’re getting!
Tell us about the space.
If you’ve already heard about us, you may well have walked past during the daytime and thought, “Where on earth is it?”. We’re number 39 Goodramgate and we share the building with the lovely people from Kafeneion. Coffee shop by day, cocktail bar by night. The lack of signage is intentional. We want to make you work for it! We’d like to be everyone’s little secret.
The interior itself is lovely. We’re dark, warm, cosy and candle-lit. I think it’s the perfect place to take someone special.
How would you describe the nightlife scene in York? Where does AATCHB fit in (or not)?
I think that the night-life in York is revered throughout the country. Walk around the centre of town on a Saturday night and try and count the regional accents. It’s a drinkers’ town but I hate the negative connotation associated with saying something like that. Not to get all Bill Hicks about things but can their not be ONE positive alcohol story? I met nearly all of my friends in the public houses of York. Every city-centre has its problems on a weekend evening but I think York’s reputation as a great destination for a night out is valid and well deserved.
Places like House of The House Of The Trembling Madness and Evil Eye Lounge are nationally recognised for a reason. We also have some of the most beautiful medieval boozers in the world.
In terms of how AATCHB fits into the picture of York nightlife, I’d like to think we offer an alternative. A place to relax, to try new things, to feel secure and to be completely looked after.
Who is the target clientele?
We don’t really have one, to be honest. I wanted to create an environment where you’d feel equally comfortable taking your grandparents as you would that hot date you’ve been looking forward to for a fortnight. There’s also no dress code. I find them arrogant beyond words. A poor man may be a gentleman as well as a rich man. Never forget that.
Finally, for anybody who hasn’t yet paid you a visit, how would you describe AATCHB in 5 words?
Cocktails. Vibes. Lo-Fi-Sounds. Service. Ace.
And All That Could Have Been can be found at 39 Goodramgate, open 7 nights a week.
It certainly *sounds* pretentious...
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